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Northern Thai Food Club in Thai Town is a singular, spicy trip


A baseline of aromatics energizes her soups: lemongrass, galangal, garlic, shallots, red chiles. She goes heavy on the Makrut lime leaves for an herbal chicken variation called gaeng om. Handfuls of fermented bamboo shoots aggressively tilt a stormy jumble of pork, mushrooms and long beans toward earthier, funkier angles.

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