Pea protein is the principal ingredient in Beyond burgers

“Going vegan is a great opportunity to learn more about nutrition and cooking, and improve your diet,” the Vegan Society says. If you are eating bowls of kale, squash and walnuts tossed in olive oil and virtue that may well be true. Every nutritionist and environmentalist can agree that we should be eating a bit less meat and a few more vegetables.

Yet not everyone embracing a vegan diet — or even the 22 million estimated “flexitarians” in Britain — are spending their mealtimes with their head in a salad bowl. The boom in plant-based eating has also ushered in a raft of processed vegan products trying to replicate animal versions. One in six food launches last year claimed to be vegan or plant-based, according to the…